FLEMING ISLAND – You don’t run a meat market if your heart’s not in it.

Before Carl Wilkinson opened Fleming Island Choice Meats nearly 25 years ago, he had to choose between an underdeveloped Fleming Island or Fort Caroline on Jacksonville’s Southside. He researched court records and saw Fleming and Clay County’s potential.

This was before the two Publix locations opened a few miles apart, or the Winn-Dixie, The Fresh Market, Sam’s Club and BJ's Wholesale. Now Carl Wilkinson’s butcher shop competes with the chains that sprouted on County 220 and U.S. 17.

“None of that was there,” he said.

It’s wedged behind a Circle K and beside a barber shop on Raggedy Point Road. Besides the conventional slate of meat – chicken, pork and beef – the Wilkinsons also stuff chicken breasts and make their homemade sausages and jerky. But it’s the array of cuts and freshness he said that sets Fleming Island Choice Meats apart. About 4,000 pounds of meat come through the shop each week.

Carl gestured to the counter and said the filet mignon and French pork chops were some of the customers’ favorite, although he prefers tri-tip sirloin and prime rib.

Originally from Palatka, he spent time at Winn-Dixie and Tillman’s Meats and Country Store in Mandarin honing the craft. With the help of a business partner, the meat market became a reality, although it meant the Wilkinsons had to work 80 hours weeks, including weekends.

“Nobody wants to work this hard,” Carl said. “Years of experience [go into it], you don’t just go into a meat market yourself like you just wanted to have one. You’d never make it.”

Customers can see an array of meats behind the counter. And on the right is a collection of Green Bay Packers memorabilia, numerous spices and sauces.

Green Bay native Laurie Wilkinson’s father was an NFL referee in the 1960s. While her husband cuts pork, she’s optimistic the Packers can improve on last season’s disappointing 6-9-1 record. She said the most-rewarding aspect of the business is serving the children of customers who came in with their parents 20 years ago.

“I love my customers. We’ve all become friends,” Laurie Wilkinson said. “Knowing [the business] is ours and not a corporate thing, you know, that makes it more enjoyable. We enjoy coming to work.”

Fleming Island’s rapid growth is unavoidable. Fleming Island Choice Meats relies on a devoted community following. The Wilkinsons know most of their customers by name, and most order the same cuts every week.

“Business gets tough and there’s a lot of competition out here,” Carl said. “To keep a good fresh market, you have to have sales and traffic through that door every day. I could have done anything, but I enjoyed it. That’s what I chose to do.”

Some pictures of customers decorate the walls and Laurie said there used to be a beer keg at the front of the store for friends. Everything has changed, she said.

“I’ve had a lot of support. Even though we have the grocery store chains, I’m not worried about them,” she said. “We’re a meat market.”

There are hidden gems throughout Clay County. From the mom-and-pop grocery store, to the family-owned butcher shop, to the local mechanic who still knows how to fix a carburetor, it’s fun to slow down to tell the story of another small business that adds its unique character to our community. We will continue to highlight our hidden gems every week.